15 febbraio 2012

Young & Talented #1_ Erïk Bjerkesjö

Durante Polimoda Fashion Week, una settimana di eventi, installazioni e workshop, organizzata a gennaio dall'Istituto Internazionale di Fashion Design & Marketing Polimoda, in concomitanza con Pitti Uomo 81, ho avuto l'immenso piacere di conoscere Erïk Bjerkesjö, giovane fashion designer originario di Stoccolma, che a Polimoda si è diplomato nel 2010 con un Master in Advanced Fashion Footwear Design.
Erïk è il primo designer lanciato da Polimoda Talents, progetto che si propone come piattaforma di lancio per tutti gli ex allievi dell'istituto. Ogni 6 mesi Linda Loppa, Direttore di Polimoda, insieme al suo team selezionerà i migliori talenti tra i giovani che hanno frequentato l'istituto per presentare al pubblico la loro visione innovativa della moda.
Di Erïk Bjerkesjö mi hanno colpito due elementi: il suo grande talento e la sua umiltà. Ho perciò colto al volo l'opportunità di intervistarlo. Lui si è dimostrato molto disponibile e questo è quello che ne è venuto fuori. Buona lettura ;)

During the new edition of Pitti Uomo 81 and the Polimoda Fashion Week, a week full of events, installations and workshops organised by Polimoda, International Institute of Fashion Design & Marketing, I had the great pleasure to meet Erïk Bjerkesjö, a young fashion designer from Stockholm, graduated in 2010 at Polimoda Institute, with a master degree in Advanced Fashion Footwear Design.
Erïk is the first designer presented by Polimoda Talents, a launching-pad project devoted to former students. Each semester Director Linda Loppa and her team will select a young talent from among the most derving former students to display their collections to the public.
I was impressed by Erïk Bjerkesjö for two reasons: he's talented and he's a very humble guy. So I've decided to interview him. You can find the interview below. Hope you like it :)


1) Which is the concept behind your last collection?

The concept and inspiration behind the collection is the craftsmen that I work with, how they are dressed, how they work. My collection is washed with shoe cream so the garments feel like they have been worn by a person making shoes by hand.

2) Is there something in particular that has inspired you?
The craftsmen, the village I work in Tuscany, Gamla Stan in Stockholm and travelling gentlemen from a 1930's era. The British aristocrats, post-punk suits and my favourite band Joy Division.

3) Which are the materials you prefer to use to realize your pieces?
Calf leather, washed cashmere and wool, Linen and soft nappa leather.

4) You are a Swedish designer, but you work with tuscan craftsmen. How did this craftmanship start and why?
It started during school, I wanted to move and start my brand in Stockholm, but I wanted to produce and learn the famous Italian craftsmanship, especially with shoes. So I got introduced to a production studio during my master by my teacher Diane Becker, and it went great and I wanted to stay in Tuscany, because I think it is one of the best places for this type of craftsmanship.

5) In your opinion, which are the essential qualities that a good shoe should have?
A god fit, a good foot anatomy heel that feels stabil and great quality of the leather, I prefer organic leather.
6) Among your clothes, which is your favourite piece and why?
My leather jacket with a lower felt part. It has a great fit, and it is a varm jacket in washed calf leather.

7) Where do you show your collections? Is there any online marketplace which sell your clothes or do you have a flagship store?
I work in a studio at the moment with Obscur in Copenhagen. I also work in Gamla Stan in Stockholm and production in a village outside Florence.
You can find the shoes at Nordiska Kompaniet in Stockholm, in New York and YDE in Copenhagen among few. The shoes will come to Italy and France soon.

8) Erïk, you also love to take photos. I'd like to know something more about this passion.
I admire many photographers and I am very interested in photography, the way it makes me feel. My father is a writer and a journalist and he was working a lot as a photagrapher when I grew up, and I got inspired to express myself in that way.
© All photos in this post, courtesy Marlo Saalmink - Public Relations
La collezione di Erïk Bjerkesjö è stata presentata a Villa Favard, nuova sede di Polimoda, il 10, 11 e 13 gennaio. Vogue.it ha definito il lavoro di Erïk "La sartoria più innovativa a Firenze".
Se volete altre informazioni su Erïk, potete leggere il mio articolo su di lui su Trendstoday.it o visitare il suo sito.

Erïk Bjerkesjö collection was presented in Villa Favard, Polimoda new premises, in January, 10, 11 and 13. Vogue.it called Erïk Bjerkesjö "The most innovative tailoring in Florence".
For further information about Erïk, you can read my article about him on Trendstoday.it or visit his website.

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